Print one of each of the - back, body, front, mount, tube and cap parts and clean off all the burrs and support materials.
This is handy to know when you are putting the tube/camera parts together.ĭecide how to mount and print some parts. You may also find it helpful to hot wire the camera gear together prior to beginning, that way you can mark which side of the camera is the top. If you need something modified, leave me a comment and I'll try to work it in.
You should therefore be able to use metric or imperial standard hardware. I usually design my holes a bit small and ream them out with a drill bit. Any kind of translucent plastic sheet will be fine if you don't (only if you intend to use the flip filter part) You can useĪny color you want though. You can use a small piece of wire or 1.75mm filament or tinyīolt or whatever will make a nice little pin.ġ - primary red theatrical gel filter. Picatinny mount will clamp straight to the picatinny rail)ġ - pin for the flip filter piece. (for clamping on the lcd only if you are going to use the ring mount, Screws laying around you are probably not the kind of person who should DIY aġ - scope ring.
lets face it, If you don't have a coffee can full of little ĥ - 1" long x # 8 bolts and nuts (assembly of the lcd housing and mount).ĩ - 3/8" long x #6 screws and nuts (assembly of the tube/cap).ġ - small length of teflon tubing, I used a bit of 2mm x 4mm PTFE tubing I had for aĢ - little tiny screws for mounting the camera board in the cap.Not sure what size but they It comes with a 6mm lense and a little 3 wire harness. I'm cheep and know little to nothing about cameras, so I used this one I got on ebay for 10 bucks. I used this little camera board but as long as the board measures about 32mm x 32mm you can use what ever you like. You will end up cutting off those bulky connectors and fishing the wires out of the jacket but more on this later. I got one for under 25 bucks on ebay but I am in no way affiliated with a vendor so shop around and get yourself a good deal. I used this little screen and pulled it apart for the guts The body, flip filter, front and tube should print just fine with out support.
This may depend on how well your printer handles overhang and how well your bridge settings are dialed in. The back, mount and the cap will probably need to be printed with support. I'm betting you are a bit of a tinkerer if you 're looking at this though. This is a pretty easy build if you can use a soldering iron and have some basic tools. I want to be able to hog hunt at night and hunt other big game during the day without needing to have two dedicated rifles and I don't want to have to change optics, on the fly, between hunts. Now that we have that out of the way, my goal was to create a practical and cost effective night vision scope attachment. YOU SHOULD NOT USE THIS TO POACH DEER OR SPY ON TOO MANY NAKED PEOPLE! If you choose to, I neither have respect for you nor compassion for your inevitable criminal charges and I furthermore take absolutely no responsibility for you acting like a criminal or a child. Not only should you use this responsibly and legally, consider your ethical conduct as well. Okay here is the deal, this is a digital night vision scope attachment. Here is a thing that everyone can enjoy! Need to keep an eye on your rowdy neighbors or plan on playing some night time airsoft? Maintaining security around the house (in a legal way and in accordance with local-state-federal laws)? Varmint control on the farm (if legal in your area), predator night hunting (if legal in your area), or night time wildlife viewing (if legal in your.